GamerOS Windows 10 & 11 DIY Preset

AeonX said:
These components are only important for those who use the Store or gamepass. For those who only use Steam for example they are irrelevant.
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But who use desktop app installer for example to install multiple apps winget use delivery optimization
 
I've pretty much been messing with this same stuff for about 2 years now. Did a lot of manually. If you are not sure about a service Microsoft has a program called Autoruns. It's part of the sysinternals package. If you open that as admin and when you disable a service with autoruns it leaves an entry in the registry in HKLM/System/CurrentControlSet/Services/ Theres the list of all your services and any service you disable Autoruns will add and DWord "AutorunsDisabled" and the value is what the service was set to. If you go to the start DWord that's where you enable or disable a service. 0 is boot, 1 is Automatic, 2 is Automatic Delayed, 3 is Manual, 4 is Disabled. So usually what'll do is setup a windows install usb. I'll go through and disable a couple of things in autoruns. then if I get one that causes the system to not boot you can boot into the windows usb. At the first window hit shift f10. type in regedit. It'll show you the X:\ which is the usb but if you go up to File menu in the regeditor, and click on load hive. Then navigate to your C:\Windows\System32\Config\System and It'll ask you what to name it...just use something random that isn't the the same as the other hives in regedit. Then Place it anywhere. I usually us HKey_Users. Drop that down and open up the hive you loaded and navigate to CurrentControlSet\Services\ and you can look do search for Autoruns. You'll be able to easily find the services you disabled and know what they were set to. Alot of the times I'll spam the F3 key and look for the AutorunsDisabled thats set to 0. Usually those are the most important ones that'll stop windows from booting. Also if your in Services.msc and open up a service. Theres a tab Dependencies. The bottom box is pretty imporant. If there's anything there. Than disabling that service will prevent the ones in the bottom box from opening. Just some things I've learned. I now do a lot of "optimizing" for my buddies. They bitch about their pcs. I remote in with Teamviewer. Show them they have 300 processes running and that they don't need obs, streamlabs, geforce experience and they don't need every game launcher running all the time. I mean you can really only play one game at a time haha.
 
Tommy_L33T said:
If your playing single player games the console experience is acceptable, but when people earn a living off of just one match your tools better be performing at its best, that's the demographic I'm offering this windows iso build too, and I want it to be easy for the casual gamer to discover competitive gaming at 240hz or 360hz and fps to match it, and man that is some good info and is exactly what I needed to hear, Ive never used the store or anything only steam
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Yea...I mean right now the consoles are worth it. The cheap console is rated at 1440p/120hz. That's nutty for a $300msrp system. I can't wait for the DirectStorage API to implemented in the PC universe. It's gonna be a game changer. I learned a lot of this stuff by trial and error. I haven't gamed in about 10 years. I happened to get laid off right about the end of season 0 when Modern Warfare 2019 came out. I didn't even know about it but I stumbled across Wildcat and Marcel and them and it looked like a blast. Well my pc was a Athlon 760k box I setup a couple years before that as like a Media center. And maybe about a year before MW came out I found a Asus RX580 for $130 on ebay. Picked up a HyperX 212 cooler from Best buy. It was one of those flat half height horizontal cases so it fit in the TV stand. Well took the top panel off..Cut the back off where the cuz the case only fit half height pci cards and we started gaming....well I've been a console pleeb as a kiddie. I loaded in my first map and I couldn't even run straight haha. I had a 75hz HP office monitor and fps was around 50-80 but pretty unstable as the cpu was just a 2 core 4 thread 3.8ghz boost up to 4.1ghz haha. I had to run a higher render resolution to slow the gpu down to help the cpu keep pace. So after a crash course in overclocking I was able to get that bad little cpu to 4.7ghz all core. My performance was better but not great. Being at 100% CPU load playing the game I started thinking that any bit of utilization I could lower from windows could go back to the game. So after months of testing and tweaking and reinstalling and this and that I was able to get windows the the same you have it. At 1080p Normal Textures I held a sold 80-90 fps. It really does make a difference if you're limited like that. But my 5800x and 6900xt that I converted to a custom water loop that I have a radiator that uses 2 200mm fans. I can now play MW at 1440p Ultra textures with a 288 fps average. At 1080p I can easily crush 350-400 fps in MW. But between what I learned from pushing that little 760k I'm now 25th on 3dMark's Timespy out of 30000 entries for my CPU and GPU. That really surprised me and it's awesome braggin right's with the boys in chat haha.

https://imgur.com/D8iHkbT
Here's my entry on 3dmark. When I posted it I was 17th but that was 3 weeks ago and I just checked it today and I'm down to 25th. Theres 30,000 other entries for my specific class. There's guys that run dual gpus and such. They get nutty scores. I can probably get some more out of mine my cpu I didn't really dial it in. I kinda just got it in a good spot quick and then messedwith the gpu and got those scores. But when you gotta tweak each core at a time and you got 16 of them it takes a lot of time and rebooting and crashing and haha. I'll never ever ever mess with OC ram again. I'll spend the extra money to get the high speed low latency kit. It's worth every penny.
 
lenkarin said:
But who use desktop app installer for example to install multiple apps winget use delivery optimization
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Yes but again this is only relevant for those who use crap Windows apps.

But I have to agree that for a more generic preset for games this junk is needed because of games that only exist in the Store (Microsoft games) or even to use the Xbox Game Pass.
 
gamers and audiophiles share the same problem hehehe
 
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on services like this "DevicePickerUserSvc_29d1e" the "29d1e" is a per user ident, i have seen 2 instances of the service but with different idents. disabling the parent service "DevicePickerUserSvc" is enough. that is one of what i call "those bastard services" because you cant disable them from Services :mad:, you have to disable the parent from the registry. going to be having a closer look at them when i reinstall ltsc.
 
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Tommy, I must say thanks for creating this thread - I, too, have been messing around tweaking Windows images (from XP to Windows 7) for quite a while. It's a lot of work to customize Windows as one see fit.
 
Tommy_L33T said:
could use some network settings and such
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The most useful tweak is lowering the MTU to prevent packet fragmentation. If you're only talking to local LAN, enabling jumbo packets improves peer-to-peer file transfer but it's useless for the outside world. Fragmentation adds latency or in some cases blocks legitimate traffic.

Windows has defaults to enable proper MTU discovery (sizing), but in the real world upstream routers, firewalls and even your ISP play stupid NAT'ing games and will sometimes "black hole" ICMP traffic. You might never figure out which one is doing it. If you don't resize the MTU on your box, it'll fragment somewhere upstream of you anyway.

Do the usual ping -f -l [size] trick for a given set of major websites (or gaming servers). You can't give a stock recommendation, it has to be for your specific upstream target. Don't forget take the packet size and add 20 bytes overhead. They're tools to do this live (TCP Optimizer), so you don't have to muck the registry. It won't be faster, but less chance of silently dropped packets which are worse on gamers.
 
If you're running DD-WRT, read up on bufferbloat and QoS. Bufferbloat is where your network device prefers to wait until it receives enough data to blast full packets (no empty space) to maximize transmission. The cost is latency. QoS allows specific packet types higher priority in send order if multiple traffic arrives. Gaming is about shorter packets, which is opposite of tuning for faster file downloads.

You can't optimize for both. Some guides are for gamers, others for downloaders. The idea behind TCP Optimizer and other tools to keep multiple profiles to switch settings depending on what you're doing. If it's a dedicated gaming box, leave it static.

Many NIC drivers offer TCP/UDP offload support, having the NIC translate headers so CPU does less work. On a modern CPU, this overhead is very little unless you're hammered by traffic (like a web server). Also, cheap NICs don't really offload anything. I think this why Killer made so much money (better chipset).

For more advanced debugging, you need WireShark. The point is not to understand what's inside the traffic, but do you see dropped packets, retransmissions, etc? That's a clue your PC and the upstream device isn't aligned.

Bottom line: bang for the buck, choose a good router/switch (or install DD-WRT). Check MTU length. Turn on QoS.
Twitchy gaming traffic is not the same as improving long TCP sessions, so most advice doesn't apply to you.

Edit:
Bufferbloat Test by Waveform
 
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Tommy_L33T, thanks for your contribution.
Do let me know if you see Windows not booting after removing some non-driver component, or if you have a Steam requirements to make a new Compatibility option.

Btw the steps 3 and 4 XML contains non-XML format issues under RemoveComponents element, not sure if intentional.
 
Tommy_L33T said:
thank you for creating this fine program, Ive slowly been learning how to work it as someone who is just a computer hobbyist and for sure I will make it something that I will pay attention to in all my messing around, I did leave those lines in to separate out the sections, if they need a function to remain like hyper v for virtual machines or something its clearly defined what needs to remain for those functions to remain intact and they can just delete it, its a relic of me learning whats attached to what and I thought it may be helpful to others
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You're welcome.

Btw you can add comments to the XML file, so it's loadable, and segmented if anyone edits manually.
<!-- commenthere -->
Copy-paste that whole line above, and edit the middle to your liking, it can span multiple-lines, just start and end characters need to be like those arrows.
Tool will ignore comments on load, this is generic XML syntax, not specific to the tool.
 
Is it possible to get wifi working with this somehow?

Edit: please disregard I got it working, not bloody sure what I did though :D

Thanks for creating this Tommy, I love it
 
nuhi said:
Btw you can add comments to the XML file, so it's loadable, and segmented if anyone edits manually.
<!-- commenthere -->
Copy-paste that whole line above, and edit the middle to your liking, it can span multiple-lines, just start and end characters need to be like those arrows.
Tool will ignore comments on load, this is generic XML syntax, not specific to the tool.
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XML library will ignore any comments on load, but NTLite won't remember them on save. Keep that in mind when editing.
 
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Tommy_L33T I'm still having an issue with ur preset where i open services.msc and i get MMC cannot intialise the snap-in error !! is there any fix for it?
 
What's the CLSID error (entire hex string)? That will narrow down the snap-in.
 
There's two ways to enable touchpad (multi-finger) support. Some installers (ELAN or Synaptics) will include their own software beside the basic driver. For very new laptops, Windows can work with the driver alone.

TabletPC is only relevant if you have a touchscreen or using onscreen keyboard.
 
As always, finding drivers are your responsibility. Get the best matching drivers for your HW, or hope it works with Windows' generic drivers. When WU is allowed to download drivers, it might suggest a better version.

That said, I don't see any benefits from stripping driver INF files from images. It doesn't make it faster. This was common back in the XP/W7 days when the ISO scene was all about "Windows is too big to fit on my DVD". We have cheap USB flash drives now.

Drivers are only loaded when Windows sees a matching vendor ID tag, otherwise INF files don't sit around taking up resources.
I wouldn't worry so much about harmless driver files, as long as you find the required ones.
 
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